In a land where you feel time has forgotten, live the Kazakh
people that embrace traditions as old as the nomadic Khitans from Manchuria. A
people who conquered part of northern China around 940AD.
Today, approximately 250 Kazakh
men live in the western Mongolia province of Bayan-Olgi and carry on a
tradition first depicted by the Khitan archives. This tradition is “horse
riding eagle falconry”. The skill of using a Golden Eagle to capture prey while
riding through the mountains.
Now, every October, a festival to celebrate the traditions
and the craft of eagle hunting on horseback occurs. During this festival up to
70 eagle hunters gather for the annual Kazakh Golden Eagle Festival of
Mongolia. And in 2014 participants as young as a 13yr old girl to an 85yr old
man showed the intimate crowd the art of golden eagle hunting.
I had the pleasure of witnessing the synchronicity between
man (and a girl) and eagle over the course of two entertaining days. Both
hunter and eagle showing off the skills needed to once tip the scales between
starvation and survival; now showing off the skills to still feed a family, but
more to embrace the long standing heritage and show off the prowess of the art
of hunting fox.
As I sat there and watched the two work in tandem, I
couldn’t help but wonder how close the bond had to be between a wild golden
eagle that was taken after birth from a nest and a hunter. Was it a skill that
the two mastered together, or was it some pavlovian genetic instinct of the
eagle to hunt, combined with man’s superior mind. Was the hunter using training
methods of reward so the eagle would hunt?
My answer came to me after closely watching both men and
bird during my time living with a Kazakh family in Western Mongolia. There,
immersed in the ways of the past, watching the eagle live with the family, I spotted
the first of many first tender moments of man and bird.
The bond did not spawn from the birds need to hunt, nor did
it come from training, it came from creating a special, and unfathomable
respect between a wild bird and a simple man. The man would command, the eagle
would listen, instinctively hunt as it has done for centuries, then wait for
the hunter to arrive with prey in its talons.
As seen in this photo. The hunter speaks to the Golden Eagle
and places his hand on the eagles chest to pet her… and in response, the Golden
Eagle nuzzles against the face of her partner and makes a guttural sound as if
to respond to the man’s words.
That tender moment between an eagle and a man made this trip
more than a visit to a festival, it made this trip an eye opening experience
that two beings, normally hunting to survive as competitors, can learn that
working together, producing a better life.
It almost made me sad to think that this relationship only
lasts 6 to 10 years. After that, the female eagle is released back into the
wild so she can breed and live out her life as a wild eagle should. Both hunter
and eagle having lived a richer life for the friendship forged.
I hope you would consider joining me on my next trip to Mongolia. Read all the details by clicking here.
No comments:
Post a Comment